
I visited New Orleans for the first time in April of 2008. Before I travel to a city I’ve never set foot in before, I like to know a bit about it. Mythical New Orleans was no exception. I’d dreamed of going there, most of my life, before I knew what Mardi Gras was. Visions of Louis Armstrong filled my childhood dreams, cheeks puffed out as he blew into that trumpet, setting it alight. Fuelled by my obsessive consumption of Anne Rice novels, my curiosity grew through the years, but was not to be satisfied until I was well into my forties. Having left North America for seven years and marrying upon my return, my dream of seeing one of the most unique cities on earth was delayed by circumstance; its wrought iron, French Quarter confections put on hold. Last year, though, I finally did what I’d been waiting to do all my life and planned that trip. As I prepared myself to go on this pilgrimage, I stumbled upon what is now a musical genre I can’t get enough of: New Orleans Street Brass. At one moment as far from Louis Armstrong as you can get, the next as near as the veins bulging in his head as he puffed out those famous cheeks.
I’ve always been a sucker for horns. I love Romani brass. I love anything loud and honking you can dance your ass off to. In New Orleans Street Brass, I found my holy grail. I was mesmerized by the sound, at first. Then my explorations led me to the inevitable discovery of New Orleans’ distinctive communal celebration: Second Line. With its roots in the 19th Century practice of the Jazz Funeral, wherein a brass band would accompany the casket of the dearly departed to the cemetery, to the mournful strains of a hymn, Second Line parades are part of the fabric of life in the Crescent City. Once the dearly departed was interred, the band would leave the grave site, mourners in tow, but to a different rhythm and vibe. Mournful strains would be transfigured to those of celebration, the mourners would dance and the streets would be filled with the sounds of jubilation. No longer was the dearly departed to be cried over. The new life of resurrection had begun and its advent was heralded by the sounds of rejoicing and the joyful movements of life.
The Social Aid and Pleasure Clubs of New Orleans grew up to fulfil a need in the African-American community of New Orleans: that the members of these clubs, having paid over years for their memberships, would leave this life on the crest of that last community party, the Jazz Funeral. Paraded through the streets of their neighbourhood, deceased members would be communally feted just one more time in those fabled streets.
Today the Second Line tradition has evolved. While traditional brass bands continue to share the sounds of earlier days; beginning in the 1980s, bands like the Rebirth Brass Band have moved the origins of the brass band in another direction, incorporating the beats and sounds of hip hop, be bop and funk into the beloved traditional framework. This is reflected in the accompanying dance. There is no formal “school” for this. It grows organically, among the people who live the tradition from about the end of August until Father’s Day of the following year, during New Orleans’ Second Line Season. On any given Sunday, a parade with some of the best and most artistically committed music one can hear, anywhere, takes place. Hundreds of people, some smoking blunts and/or drinking beer may be found moving through the city’s streets, led by a brass band and the Social Aid and Pleasure Club “steppers” or “buck jumpers”, as they’re variously known, in matching uniforms, usually in brilliant colours and accessorized with huge, feathered fans that are waved, wiggled and swayed in time to the music. When it’s time to break it down, these fans are laid in a pile on the tarmac and some very serious dancing is performed.
These parades generally “roll” for about four hours, with a police escort bringing up the rear on horseback. In between the steppers and the brass band at the front and cops at the back, people are dancing their hearts out, in the hundreds, sometimes resembling a totality. Young men climb up on billboards and rooftops to the delight of the crowd, performing for whoever happens to look up to catch their act. Gurgling babies in strollers are pushed along with bright ribbons in their hair, toddlers display their budding dance prowess to their families and neighbours, people in wheelchairs are pushed by friends in rhythmic circles and rocked to the heartbeat of the tuba. Young women pop their booties and shake their hips and seniors step to the new sound with moves they’ve been busting out since A. P. Tureaud practised law here. No one can resist. No one wants to. This is the living expression of communal identity that binds people in this city together in a way that can’t be broken, even by disaster.
There was a Jazz Funeral for Katrina, following her vicious attack on the people of New Orleans and the Gulf Coast. In the midst of the rubble of ancestral homes in the Lower 9th Ward and the tragedy of a diaspora that, four years later, appears to be enduring, it was the Second Line that manifested the reality of the community’s endurance. As the wheels of reconstruction slowly lurched into torpid life, the people of New Orleans found their voices in this, the most compelling means of manifesting their continuing resistance to adversity. With 175,000 people pulled from their home city, New Orleans struggled back to life, with a brass band and dancers leading the way. Meanwhile, other forces were at work.
The reduction in the Black population of New Orleans and its impact on the political life of the city cannot be underemphasized. Today, New Orleans City Council is populated by people hostile to the city’s traditions; those born and raised by the very population that has been exiled. Attempts have been made to limit the Second Line tradition by withholding the support of the police force for the parades. Attempts have been made to limit desperately needed replacement housing stock for those who cannot afford to return to a city whose rental rates have skyrocketed, in the wake of the disaster. Housing projects have been levelled and are not being replaced in the required quantity. Instead, the Garden City movement of Ebenezer Howard is being promoted as the “cure” for this city’s perceived ills. New Urbanism , which draws on the work of this utopian, English town planner has made ominous inroads into the urban redevelopment process in New Orleans. Utopia, to some, is a disneyfied New Orleans, in which the landed gentry can live in its quiet, tree-lined suburbs, with as few working class, poor and above, all Black neighbours as possible. The effort to secure these thinly-veiled “sundown suburbs” as the new reality of New Orleans has been most radically pursued in St. Bernard Parish (one of the areas most affected by the devastation of Hurricane Katrina). This year alone, the Parish was cited twice for violations of the Fair Housing Act (enacted by Lyndon B. Johnson in the wake of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.’s assassination). In an effort to maintain its majority white status, parish leadership went so far as to enact a “blood relative” ordinance, whereby homeowners were constrained to rent only to those to whom they were related by blood. Incidents of hostility against homeowners renting to Blacks include the burning down of a woman’s home, the burning of crosses on another’s lawn and the raising of a Confederate flag by a neighbour of someone else who wanted to do the same. All these actions have prevented developers from commencing work on much needed multi-family housing developments. Finally, Judge Ginger Berrigan has demanded that St. Bernard Parish either cease and desist, or be subject to heavy fines. It yet remains to be seen whether St. Bernard, home of the town of Chalmette (of David Duke fame) will maintain its truculence, or open itself to the reality that some of the people who live there are and will be, Black, Hispanic and/or poor.
Add to the diaspora (a fancy word for people who have been driven from homes their families have lived in since before there was a United States, separated from their families and friends and living in towns and cities all over the USA that definitely aren’t New Orleans, by any means) and the attempted re-segregation of New Orleans, the threat of local health care being diminished even further and you have a community under siege. Charity Hospital, prior to Katrina, was the only hospital in the entire State of Louisiana that served indigent (that’s a fancy word for poor) people. There is now a plan afoot for a private teaching hospital to take its place. This project would partially be funded by a FEMA disbursement, actually intended for the reconstruction of the community and not private profit. Not only would the community lose a vital health care resource, the State would lose its only not-for-profit hospital. This is where the Second Line comes in. On August 30th, the Rebirth and Hot 8 Brass Bands led a Second Line consisting of thousands of supporters in a Second Line to save this hospital. Recalling the role of music in the Civil Rights Movement of the 1960s, this resistance effort is being led by music, its power to move people and the very people this sort of profiteering is levelled at.
In April of 2007, with the assistance of the ACLU, efforts by the NOPD to raise the cost of police support for Second Line parades was by squashed by the Second Line Task Force, consisting of the Social Aid and Pleasure clubs of New Orleans. Capitalizing on a shooting death that had occurred at a parade, the NOPD attempted to triple the fee charged by the police department for escorts. In a community still reeling from the destruction of Hurricane Katrina a scant 18 months earlier, this increase would have drastically inhibited the ability of the SAPCs to continue in a tradition that has defined New Orleans for generations.
While I came to the Second Line for the music, the dance and the party, I’m staying for the power. More than a tradition of celebration, Second Line has been a means of manifesting solidarity among the poor, the working class and Black New Orleanians in the face of a dominant culture often hostile to all such Community-generated phenomena. As New Orleans moves into the future, a great deal is at stake. I fear for that city more than I fear for my own. New Orleans is home to a confluence of cultures that does not exist anywhere else in the world: Cajun, Creole, Spanish, French, Caribbean, African, Italian, all these cultures make New Orleans what it is. For generations, New Orleans has been unique in the Americas, as home to people of a multiplicity of ethnicities and origins, all distinctive and yet linked in ways that may not be broken. For some, Katrina presented an opportunity to finally break that intricately woven tapestry of belonging and cultural identity. The New Urbanists have joined hands with the social engineers and the disneyfiers, hoping to construct the Emerald City in the ashes of this gem of the Americas. But there is something standing in their way. The people of New Orleans are still in the streets, with their feathered fans and smooth, tailored finery, their tubas, horns and bass drums and they are still dancing their hearts out. They have been there for a damn long time and they’re not going anywhere. There is dancing at this revolution and the best music in the universe (as far as I’m concerned). All the blood relative ordinances and real estate sharks and racists in the world cannot pass. This community is smaller now, but it’s stronger and it has the funk its enemies don’t know anything about. The Second Line of New Orleans is rolling in a whole new way, these days and Ebenezer Howard is rolling in his grave, for this is the life and the resurrection of New Orleans and it won’t be crushed.